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My Craiova — home

The mental map

Craiova's neighbourhoods & the towns around

Craiova has a simple shape and it helps to know it before you book: one compact centre you can cross on foot in twenty minutes, a vast park on its southern edge, the station to the east of it, and then ring after ring of 1970s housing blocks where almost no visitor ever needs to go. The interesting distances are the ones out of town — Târgu Jiu for Brâncuși, Horezu for UNESCO, Segarcea for wine, the Danube to the south.

In Craiova — the city itself

CentreCentreCalea Unirii, Piața Mihai Viteazul and almost everything worth seeing, inside a twenty-minute walk. Stay here.101 placesRomanescuRomanescuNinety-six hectares of park laid out by a Paris-medalled French architect, the zoo inside it, and the best restaurants outside the centre.14 placesStation & BrâncușiStation & BrâncușiWhere you arrive by train or coach, twenty-five minutes' walk east of Calea Unirii. Cheaper beds, honest trade-off.5 placesSărariSărariThe old low-built quarter immediately north of the centre — the one residential area worth walking through on purpose.1 placesBrazda lui NovacBrazda lui NovacThe big northern district, and the one real alternative to the centre if you are driving: three hotels, and somewhere to park.7 placesRovineRovineEastern residential district with a surprisingly good run of restaurants and the city's two best neighbourhood patisseries.7 placesCraiovița NouăCraiovița NouăThe biggest district in the city, out west: the mall, the water park's rival attractions, and cheap beds.11 placesValea RoșieValea RoșieA residential district west of the centre. Three listings, no sights, and we will not pretend otherwise.4 places1 Mai1 MaiThe water park, and a 16th-century monastery almost nobody visits. North-west of the centre.3 placesLăpuș-ArgeșLăpuș-ArgeșA residential district with one genuinely interesting thing in it: a café that is also a theatre.4 placesCalea BucureștiCalea BucureștiThe eastern artery to the airport: two good guesthouses, parking, and twelve minutes from the centre.8 placesBalta VerdeBalta VerdeThe southern edge of the city, and the way out to Jitianu monastery — eight kilometres, and almost nobody goes.2 places

Around Craiova — Oltenia, within a day

Where visitors actually spend their time

Almost all of it in two adjoining places. The Centre is Calea Unirii — pedestrianised, lined with the belle-époque facades the city built when Oltenian grain money was at its height — plus Piața Mihai Viteazul with the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave at its head, the National Theatre, the Art Museum in the Jean Mihail Palace and the six Brâncuși originals inside it. Every hotel worth booking for a short trip is in or beside it.

Romanescu, ten minutes south, is the other one: ninety-six hectares of Nicolae Romanescu Park, the lakes, the suspension bridge and the zoo. In July and August this is not a pleasant walk but a necessary one — see how to survive the heat.

The rest of the city

Station & Brâncuși is where you arrive by train or coach, in Piața Constantin Brâncuși, twenty-five minutes' walk east of Calea Unirii; there are hotels here and they are cheaper, which is a fair trade if you do not mind the walk. Sărari is the old quarter immediately north of the centre — quiet, low-built, and the one residential area a visitor might plausibly walk through on purpose. The Oltenia Museum and the Ethnographic Museum in Casa Băniei, the oldest building in the city, are both just over the line in the centre.

Brazda lui Novac, Rovine, Craiovița Nouă, Valea Roșie, 1 Mai, Lăpuș-Argeș and Balta Verde are residential: housing blocks, their own markets, their own good cheap restaurants, and nothing a short visit requires. They are listed here because a hotel or an apartment will sometimes be in one of them and you deserve to know what that means before you click. Calea București runs east towards the airport and is the useful one of the group.

Around Craiova

This is the real reason to come, and all of it is a day trip. Târgu Jiu is 110 km north — about 1 h 50 min — for Brâncuși's monumental ensemble, free and in the open air. Horezu is 113 km north-east for the UNESCO monastery at Hurezi and the potters. Segarcea is only 29 km south — a half-day for the wine at the old Crown Domain. Drobeta-Turnu Severin is 112 km west for Trajan's Bridge and the Iron Gates. Calafat is 89 km south on the Danube, with the bridge to Bulgaria. Rânca is 134 km and 1,600 m up, at the foot of the Transalpina.

Sleep in the centre and drive out. Every one of those is comfortably there and back in a day, the measured times are on the Oltenia page, and none of them is served well enough by train or bus to be worth attempting without a car.

Where to stay, by area

Live prices and availability on a map centred on this exact spot — hotels, apartments and hostels, so you can judge the walk from here rather than guess from an address.

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The My Cities collection

Where the journey goes next

Bucharest is 231 km east, Brașov 278, Iași further still. Same format, same measured distances, same honesty about what we could not verify — written city by city.

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