The loudest night in Oltenia
Matchday in Craiova — Ion Oblemenco, and the evening around it
The stadium that opened in 2017 holds about thirty-one thousand, and on a full night it is one of the best atmospheres in Romanian football. This is what to do with the hours either side of kick-off — where to eat, how to get there, and where the evening carries on.
The ground
Ion Oblemenco opened in 2017 on the site of the old stadium of the same name, with a capacity of roughly thirty-one thousand. It is named after the striker who scored more than anyone else for the club in its great years, and it is one of the newest grounds in the country — single-tier bowl, steep, loud, and close to the pitch in a way the older Romanian stadiums are not.
It sits about two kilometres west of Piața Mihai Viteazul, on Bulevardul Ilie Balaci. That is a twenty-five-minute walk from the centre, or a short ride.
Why the city cares this much
Because of 1983. Universitatea Craiova reached the semi-finals of the UEFA Cup in 1982–83, going out to Benfica — the furthest any Romanian club had gone in Europe at that point, and done by a side the city still calls *Craiova Maxima*. That team is the reference every subsequent season in this city is measured against, forty years on.
It is also why the club situation is complicated: two clubs now claim the same lineage, and which one you are watching depends on the fixture. Check the ticket — and the club page explains which court decided what, and what is still being argued.
The hours before
The centre is where to spend them. Calea Unirii is pedestrianised through the middle, the terraces around Piața Mihai Viteazul fill from late afternoon, and it is a straightforward walk to the ground from there — which is the main argument for eating in the centre rather than near the stadium.
If you want something specifically Oltenian before a match rather than a burger: ciorbă de perișoare, tochitură with polenta and a glass of Segarcea red.
Getting there and away
On foot from the centre: about twenty-five minutes, and the simplest option on a matchday, when the roads around the ground are the slowest part of any journey.
By car: leave earlier than you think, and expect the exit afterwards to take longer than the walk would have.
Afterwards the city does not empty out. The bars around the centre take the crowd, and the cocktail bars and clubs run late on a Friday or Saturday fixture.
If there is no match on
The ground is still worth the walk if you are in the area — it is a genuinely good piece of modern architecture, and the Polyvalent Hall next to it hosts handball and concerts. But do not plan a day around an empty stadium: on a non-matchday, Romanescu is a better use of the same afternoon.
Eat before the match
CRAFT Pizza - Restaurant & Delivery
Drobeta-Turnu Severin4.6(6,838)out of 5 on Google€€€€Closed · opens 10:30
Afterwards
Frequently asked
How big is the Ion Oblemenco stadium?
About thirty-one thousand seats. It opened in 2017 on the site of the old stadium of the same name and is one of the newest grounds in Romania — a single-tier bowl, steep and close to the pitch, which is why the atmosphere on a full night is among the best in the country.
How do you get to the stadium from the centre of Craiova?
It is on Bulevardul Ilie Balaci, about two kilometres west of Piața Mihai Viteazul — roughly twenty-five minutes on foot. On a matchday walking is the sensible choice: the roads around the ground are the slow part of any journey, and the exit afterwards is slower still.
Why is Universitatea Craiova such a big deal in the city?
Because of the 1982–83 UEFA Cup run, when the club reached the semi-finals before going out to Benfica — the furthest a Romanian club had gone in Europe at that point. The city still calls that side Craiova Maxima, and every season since has been measured against it.
Which club plays at Ion Oblemenco?
Two clubs now claim the lineage of the old Universitatea Craiova, and which one you are watching depends on the fixture. Check what it says on the ticket before you go.
Where should you eat before a match in Craiova?
In the centre rather than near the ground. Calea Unirii is pedestrianised through the middle and the terraces around Piața Mihai Viteazul fill from late afternoon, and it is a straightforward walk to the stadium from there.
Before you go
We may earn a commission from these. It never changes your price.
